Showing posts with label prato. Show all posts
Showing posts with label prato. Show all posts

Thursday, June 30, 2011

A day in Bologna

Bologna

I finally got to Bologna yesterday! Something to check off my list...

The train ride was surprisingly short (about an hour including changeover at Prato Centrale) and cheap (7 euros). The train ride from Prato to Bologna was mostly through tunnels, as you essentially need to go through mountains to get there. There was a guy on the train, typical Italian, wearing pink shorts and a purple top (not that there's anything wrong with that, it was just memorable) and he was trying to have a phone conversation and kept stalking back and forth from one end of the train to the other trying to get service. He also had an unlit cigarette hanging from his mouth for most of the trip. I wanted to tell him "dude... you know we won't be arrive for another half hour, put the cigarette down and chill out!".

The city of Bologna is beautiful, with tons of public art and impressive statues, and with a unique tendency towards covered walkways with vaulted arched ceilings, rather than regular sidewalks. The city also had great shopping (hello new shoes) and I found the people (in stores, restaurants, on the streets) to be noticeably more pleasant than in other Italian cities. Unfortunately my lunch was a bit disappointing... I trusted Lonely Planet and went to a place called Osteria de Poeti, which had a neat location in the basement of an old wine cellar. But something felt a bit off when I entered... I quickly realized it was the fact that they were playing "Sweet Home Alabama" on the speakers... hmmmm... And my meal wasn't that great. I made up for it later though...

I also checked out the Museo Civico's collection of art, which was very nice. I was disappointed that the archaeological museum was closed for no apparent reason... I was looking forward to going asI hear that they have an impressive collection of Egyptian and Etruscan artifacts.

At about 5pm I decided it was time to extract myself from Bologna (the fact that I was seriously contemplating buying a pair of boots for 550 euros was a pretty good indicator that it was time to leave). I took the train to Florence and met Katie who had done a bit of shopping at H&M, and after we showed each other our purchases, we headed to the bridge beside Ponte Vecchio (the old bridge of Florence... the only one to survive WWII) to enjoy a bottle of bubbly. It's really fun to have wine outside in Florence (or anywhere in Italy/Europe) since there are so many tourists around who can't believe that you can legally drink in the streets and therefore think of you as, for lack of a better term, super cool. A lot of Americans struck up conversations with us, including a family from California who had just arrived that morning... They also asked for restaurant recommendations. I hope they found Piazza Santo Spirito and had a good meal there!

After our wine, we decided it was time for dinner. We decided to try Pizzeria O'Vesuvio, which is the pizzeria where the Jersey Shore cast was "working" (...catch all their thrilling Florence adventures next season... or don't...). I'd heard that O'Vesuvio is actually the best pizza in Florence, but was rather skeptical... anywhere that's been tainted by Jersey Shore has to be dismal. But Oh. My. Gosh. That pizza was indescribable. I didn't even know pizza had the ability to BE so good. It changed my life... everything else that has ever happened to me, or will ever happen to me, will now be categorized as pre-pizza, or post-pizza. Post-pizza Ally is a new woman, a woman who sees the potential beauty in everything, especially cheesy doughy messes. I'm getting emotional just thinking about it. I don't know why Florence residents would ever eat anywhere else!

Still reeling from our pizza experience, we ran to the train station to hop the train to Prato, as Miranda had kindly offered to let us stay the night. Once in Prato we grabbed a beer at a very cool bar in a very old grotto-like space, and then I located an exceptional gelato place... their flavors were nothing extraordinary, but the texture was superb! And then we called it a night.

Bologna "sidewalks" & graffiti

Bologna

Bologna's art collection at the Museo Civico

Italians know how to make awesome door hardware!

Statues in Bologna

Part of a series of statues at the Museo Civico in Bologna

Fountain of Neptune

Bologna

Sculptures in Bologna

Bologna

Ponte Vecchio behind us

Pizza bliss
Best Pizza of Life

Monday, May 16, 2011

First italian Tour, Buren Inauguration, Rainy Florence

Fountain in Quarrata by Daniel Buren



Wooo what a great weekend! My first Italian tour on Saturday went fairly well... the visitors were very nice and patient with my Italiano arruginito (rusty Italian). The fountain inauguration in Quarrata on Saturday night was great! Met Daniel Buren, as well as another artist who has done work here at Celle, Fabrizio Corneli. Buren's fountain was very impressive (despite it's use of geometric shapes and primary colours which usually turn me off) and the setting was incredible scenic. The fountain is at a stunning villa in Quarrata that is now owned by the city and used as a public space. Katie and I made friends with the guy who did the lighting for the fountain, and his very nice assistant (and girlfriend? not sure...). There was also an open bar and big outdoor buffet of delicious food. Then we went back to Miranda's place in Prato for the night.

It was great staying at Miranda's. Her apartment is right downtown Prato, a 5 minute walk from the train station, and from there it was a 15 minute train ride to Florence.

I was amazed at how well I remembered my way around Florence! (the last time I was there was 3 years ago when I spent the summer.) Unfortunately the weather was beyond miserable, rainy and cold... When we got there we wandered through San Lorenzo Market, saw Piazza Duomo (but didn't go inside the duomo... so many tourists!!), then wandered down to Piazza Santa Croce.

At that point we decided we were starving but it was only 11 am so nothing was open for a solid meal like we wanted. We wandered for a bit and the rain got worse, and we came to a fork in the road and didn't know which was likely to have more restaurants. I "went with my gut", and ended up at Vivoli (the world's most incredible gelato place, hands down) which is hilarious because even in my whole time in Florence before, I never actually knew where it was... I always let my intuition guide me. Apparently that intuition's still there. So we had a small gelato (mmmm zabaione gelato) and then went to a trattoria next door where I got tomto sauce all over the sleeve of my white wrap. I spent the rest of the day looking super cool in a purple "Vespa" hoodie I bought in the street (paired with leggings and a cute floral pattern dress. at least the colours coordinated...).

Then we wandered back over to Piazza Signoria (where the Uffizi is) and it started bucketing rain so we waited that out in a roofed area with a bunch of statues. When it let up we went back up near Piazza Duomo to do some shopping (I forgot how incredibly bitchy Florence shoe-store workers are. How am I supposed to know if I want to buy it if I'm not even allowed to pick it up?).

Then my Florence Albanian friends finished work so we met up with them and went to a funky cheap bar for some drinks just as it started bucketing again. By the time we left the sun was out and stayed out for about an hour. We went over ponte vecchio and up to Piazza Santo Spirito (super cool little square that I only discovered on my last night of my previous stint in Florence) where there was a big market so we tried lots of pesto and spreads and things. We had a glass of wine out on a patio, saw lots of adorable dogs.

It started raining again as we were walking back towards downtown, so we went for a couple more drinks at a great little bar/lounge called Naima that I used to go to every night. Then katie and I caught the 10:00 train back to Miranda's.

 Back to the grind today! (Well, not really... no tours today. But still...).

Daniel Buren in the white jacket

Liliana, Katie, S. Gori and me

Installation at the villa in Quarrata

Drowned rat in Florence

WHAT is going on in this poster?

Just found Vivoli!!

...

Interesting decor at the bar just east of the Duomo

Ponte Vecchio

Bride in Piazza Signoria