Thursday, June 2, 2011

Turning 22 in Italy!

Me on the terazza of the Rinascente

Wooooooo it's officially my birthday AND, conveniently, a national holiday in Italy. Yesterday Katie and I went to Florence, and although both my stomach and the weather seemed a bit dicey, both held out wonderfully and it was a GREAT day/night.

We did some shopping in the afternoon (I got myself some very nice presents) and then had an incredible dinner at Za Za, the restaurant where I had the truffled spaghetti carbonara last week. This time I had beef tenderloin (very very rare) with creamy green peppercorn sauce. Katie had ravioli in truffled cream sauce. Can't wait to go back there! Then we met up with some of my friends and after hanging out near Il Porcellino (statue of a boar where, if you throw in a coin, you're sure to return to Florence) we headed to my favourite lounge/bar in Florence, called Naima. Naima is awesome. You're guaranteed to make a zillion friends every time you go, also largely due to Florence's large tourist population. Last night the bathroom was definitely the place to get acquainted, as the door was broken, so you had to stand guard for the person going before you, and then you had to ask the person after you to do the same. While doing this, I became an honorary member or Gonzaga University in Washington State, and I met a slew of other awesome people. All in all, a fantastic night!

Katie and I came back early this morning and had a much-needed nap. Apparently tonight Elena and Liliana are making me birthday dinner which is really sweet. Miranda even gave me a gift yesterday! I didn't expect my birthday here to be so special :)

New belt woohoo!

Katie on the terazza of the Rinascente
Me on the terazza of the Rinascente
Dinner!
I was going for some extra luck
Amici 
Amici
Amici
The cappella restorations were done yesterday! Removal of scaffolding = awesome present

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Birthday Abroad

So tomorrow is my birthday and I think I just realized that this is the first time I'll ever be celebrating my birthday abroad... that can't be right, can it?? Well anyways, I'm just (barely) over a stomach bug and am essentially willing myself to feel fantastic (I'm not entirely convincing, but a trip to the pharmacia should help my cause). I'd like to give a shout out to fellow intern Fava whose recent blog post perfectly and eloquently illustrates how I've felt these last few days.

In a few minutes Katie and I are heading into Florence for some shopping, dining (probably Indian food woohoo!) and other birthday-related activities. I was hoping that Snookie and Jwoww would be able to join the fun, but apparently Snookie had an altercation with the polizia a couple days ago...

Another exciting thing happening this week is that we might finally be getting internet (AKA. "the email") in our apartment so we don't have to come up to the villa in the daytime only. We have high hopes, but our knowledge about this comes from a multi-lingual game of telephone, so we aren't entirely sure what's going on. Apparently the other day, Sig. Gori said that they were aiming a satellite to shoot internet at our apartment... Then yesterday Miranda told us that we were getting wifi... the kind that needs cables. We were originally told it would happen yesterday, but then while I was sick on the couch watching Battlestar Galactica (just getting into it.. totally hooked), the "internet guys" came in and said something about venerdi (Friday)... soooo maybe by the time I get back from Croatia. We'll see.

Oh I should also update you on Katie and my excursion to the seaside town of Viareggio on Saturday. It didn't help that I was getting sick and sort of passed out on the insanely crowded train on the way back, but besides that it was good. We got there and plopped ourselves down under an umbrella on some loungers, but after a little while, some donne grosse beside us told on us (apparently it was a private part of the beach where you have to pay 15 euros for an umbrella). So we said ok, we'll just go put our towels down on the sand. Apparently you also need to pay for that. So we asked directions to the public part of the beach. The lady told us it's "piccolissimo" (tiny). That is an understatement. It's about the same square footage as my last 1-bedroom apartment in Toronto, and it's not even by the water (See below picture). It is also apparently make-out central. Nevertheless, we worked a bit on our tans, and I am officially "off-white" as opposed to "eggshell". Hurrah!

That's all for now! Ciao ciao.

Italian boys + legs shaved = ready for beach!

Looking over the private beach to the mountains beyond. Very scenic.

Katie kindly showing you the public beach. See what I mean??

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

The Definition of Beautiful in Italy

So I guess it's time for another one of my required posts... I have to give the definition of beautiful "where I am".

The obvious answer that you're all expecting is "a leisurely afternoon with good friends and good wine". Which is true. But an unexciting answer.

The unpoetic yet extremely true answer (for Italian men at least) is "anything with a chest and a pulse". Even that seems to be a bit of a flexible guideline. The other day at the beach I rapidly became very ill (had a bit of a bug the last few days) and at one point I'm pretty sure I didn't have much of a pulse, but that didn't stop them...

The comical answer (for Italian women) is "sequined, rhine-stoned, cartoon character t-shirts". Seriously, they're the hugest fad right now. At least 50% of the females you see (young and old) are wearing them.

My personal answer is "getting to have some alone time with nature". I spent the last year living downtown Toronto for the first time and it's been really nice to be out in the middle of nowhere again (although I'd kill to be able to get delivery once in a while). As I've mentioned a billion times, this property is incredible, and it's especially magical late at night walking up the super long driveway surrounded by forest where fireflies flicker all over the place. It feels like thousands of tiny paparazzi snapping pictures of my epic return.

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Work Work Work

Although I love my job here, I'm thrilled to be through this work week finally! I've had a tour nearly every day, all of them huge groups, and all of them in Italian. As a result, my Italian has very much improved just over the last couple days.

My job is about 50% knowledgeable tour guide, and 50% shepherd. The second part is the hardest. At the beginning of each tour I implore the visitors to please STAY TOGETHER and WALK QUICKLY with me between art works so that it doesn't take forever. Some groups are able to do this well, but in most groups, there are some serious laggards. You'd think that the oldest people would be the laggards, but it's definitely not the case... gli anziani (the elderly) are real troopers, and its younger people who drive me insane trying to get them to please hurry up. It's definitely going to change the way I view tours in the future. It's pretty selfish when people think they deserve to spend 5 extra minutes on their own with each artwork after the group has moved on, not only because there are 40 outdoor works so 5 minutes each = an extra few hours, but also because then they get lost and don't know where the group went, and I have to run back and find them.

This job is also an interesting psychological/social experiment, like Miranda told us on our first day. You see some interesting characters and get asked some interesting questions. One girl today had the most daft questions for me that there was no way I'd know the answer to. Like, "What is the depth of this part of the pond?" and "how did the artist move that piece to there?". It's also really funny when visitors ask questions I've already answered and the other visitors yell at them... for example (in Italian) "you idiot! she already told us it's by Luigi Mainolfi! And she clearly pointed out that aspect of the work! How could you miss it?!".

Another thing I find hilarious is that there are people who seem to think that this is a haunted pumpkin patch visit rather than a private contemporary site-specific art collection visit. They seem to expect that I'm going to try to spook them with something. There's one work out in the olive field by Bukichi Inoue titled My Sky Hole that is a long outdoor passage that leads into a windy indoor underground passage that leads to stairs which lead to a glass cube above ground. I have to stay behind to close the entrance door after the group has entered the tunnel, because we always close doors here, and I've had quite a few visitors panic and say "what's going to happen now??" as if the boogieman is going to jump out. I calmly respond "we're going to walk through the art work".

I do like that this job requires to speak very loudly... it's one of my fortes (pun totally intended). Quite often on Italian tours, people don't give me a chance to find my words and so they try to finish alllllll my sentences. I just raise the volume and drown them out. It works pretty well. I also meet some very nice people and get to work on my tan.

I'm starting to feel a bit like Bianca Neve (Snow White) here... not only because I'm pasty pasty white (despite being abbronzata (tanned) my my standards) but because all the woodland creatures are drawn to me for some reason. I literally have a memorable wildlife experience once daily. One day was the hedgehog, another was the lizard in the bathroom.

Then there was the day that I was taking a tour group out to the artwork by Alan Sonfist titled Circles of Time that tells the story of tuscany through various circles, starting at the center with a circle of the 14 oldest varieties of plants of tuscany, then a ring of thyme, then a ring of laurel, then a ring of rock, a ring of wheat, and a ring of olive trees. As I was walking over, a MASSIVE green snake (definitely the same length as my armspan) slithered over the rocks and up into the laurel, where it sat at eye level by the entrance and just stared. Needless to say, we didn't go inside the laurel ring that day. It was pretty cool in an ancient adam-and-eve kind of way.

Yesterday my wildlife encounter was going through a cave and having a bat fly out right in front of me. Today it was a bombo (bumblebee) the size of my face (seriously!) that followed me around for 10 minutes. He must have been super into the art work I was describing.

Anyways. Now I'm finally done what will probably be the most work-heavy week of my time here, and my next 2 weeks are going to be awesome!! I have an english tour next week, and then June 2nd is my birthday. Since June 2nd is also a national holiday, I'm going to go out in Florence with Katie and some of my Florence friends on the night of the 1st, since less people will have to work the next day. Maybe I'll get lucky again and see Jwoww and Snookie on my birthday! Then 2 days later I'm heading to Rome for a night in a hotel because early the next morning I leave for Split, Croatia!!! I'm so so so excited. A few days after I come back from that, Katie and I are going to go down to Rome for a night for their Pride week. I imagine it's going to be quite different from Toronto's! Then the next week my parents and their friends are coming to visit. I'm even giving them a private tour of the collection. And hopefully they'll bring some of the stuff I'm running low on (...mom! I need face wash, more earplugs, and sun screen please! Basically whatever's in that bag I left at the house... thanks!). The other new excitement in my life is that I've just booked a trip to Palermo, Sicily for the first week of August. I'll be spending 13 hours on a train (but I will have a bed on the train) and then about 4 days in Palermo. I'll also try to get to Taormina while I'm there.

Now I'm going for a much needed nap. Ciao tutti!

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Snookie, Jwoww, and Truffled Spaghetti Carbonara

Snookie and Jwoww

I'll just cut to the chase. While enjoying some truffled spaghetti carbonara (amazing) at a restaurant in Florence on my much-needed day off, the ladies of Jersey shore passed not once, but twice. Then I had to explain to the dutch couple beside me who they were and what all the fuss was about. All in all, a very successful day.

Street art in Pistoia

Incredible ricotta gnocchi made by Katie and I

Menu for the restaurant I ate at in Florence last night

Just when spaghetti carbonara can't get any better... they go and add truffles to it

Snookie and the forgettable female of Jersey Shore 
Jwoww... rear view 
My new Italian hairdresser did a great dye job!

Monday, May 23, 2011

Libraries, Grocery Stores, and Hello Kitty

Mmm bus-stop yogurt

Today has been yet another exhausting day. No tours today, but this morning I was in the library (aka archive?) of the villa putting away some books. I'm not complaining about this though... I could spend 24/7 in there! What an amazing collection of materials on an immense number of artists and contemporary art, as well as an array of neat ephemera (invitations to art shows (one was even made of bronze), artistic little cards and letters to the Gori family, cds, etc.). All the materials are currently stored in giant shelf/cupboard things in alphabetical order. However, loose pieces of paper and delicate things like the invitations I mentioned are also just slotted in between the books, and as a result, many of them are getting bent, crushed, and probably lost. I spoke to Miranda about it and I'm really hoping she'll let me file all of these non-book items into folders to be stored separately... I (and my OCD) would find that really rewarding.

While I was putting away books, I flipped through them and discovered some artists whose work I really like. I've found some images of their work and inserted them below for your enjoyment. I really really like the work of Alberto Savinio, and as I came up the stairs from the library, I noticed that S. Gori actually has one of his paintings in the hall! So cool.

This afternoon Miranda drove Katie and I to the nearby grocery store. Our cupboards are literally bare, so we really had to stock up. Unfortunately, this also meant having to get the bus back. The walk from the grocery store to the bus stop is about 10 minutes. On the way, bus 25 (the bus we need to take) went past us twice. Then by the time we got to the bus stop, we had to wait in the sun 30 minutes for the next one. It got pretty hot in the sun, so I had one of the yogurts I bought (awesome european yogurt with 2 compartments - one for yogurt and one that holds delicious toppings like chocolate-y cereal and caramelized nuts), and ate it with a Hello Kitty spoon that came with a bowl I bought (see above picture). The worst part though, was after getting off the bus... walking uphill up a 1.5km driveway feeling like a packmule with sacks of groceries is not fun. At least I got some serious exercise. And we have food! Woohoo.

Ciao tutti!

Hans Silvester is a German photographer who documents the body painting of the Surma and Mursi peoples of the Omo Valley in Southern Ethiopia

Hans Silvester is a German photographer who documents the body painting of the Surma and Mursi peoples of the Omo Valley in Southern Ethiopia

Alberto Savinio is an Italian Surrealist

Alberto Savinio is an Italian Surrealist

Eva Marisaldi is an artist from Bologna. This is an installation she did in Florence, titled 'Non Linear Grey'

Eva Marisaldi is an artist from Bologna. This is an installation she did in Florence, titled 'Non Linear Grey'

Massimo Lunardon likes to work with glass, and did a series of Alien figures like this

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Yet Another Lovely Weekend

Out on the town :)

Yesterday after a miserable tour (half of the "very trendy" Italian participants clearly had no interest in being there) the September intern Carolina picked up Katie and I and took us into Pistoia. She showed us this GREAT bar where 5 euros gets you a glass of wine AND a plate which you may then proceed to pile with delicious snacky food from the bar buffet. (The plate itself is super cool.. one of those foam things that's shaped like an artist's palette with a hole on one side that holds your wine glass so you can actually hold both and have a hand free to eat and at the same time). Then at about 11pm we had some sandwiches at a very busy restaurant, sat on the patio, and had an all-around good time. Afterwards Carolina offered to let us stay at her place since it was too late to go back to Celle (the gatehouse people are usually in bed by about 10pm). Carolina has an awesome yellow lab named Wendy.

This morning we came back and have managed to squeeze in a bit of sunbathing. Now I'm heading back into Pistoia for dinner with my cousin David again. Sort of dreading this upcoming week... I'm going to be extremely busy with afternoon Italian tours nearly every day, plus some office work. Wednesday I've got the day off and I'm going to a hairdresser in Florence, so that will be fun, yet also an exhausting day.

Ciao tutti